stomach was full of muscle, the way it is with some men who spend their lives digging up the stumps of old vines and planting new ones. He wore blue cashmere V-necks, even in the summer. His shoes were all work boots. Recently he had started dating his manicurist, much younger than he was, and from Visalia. Mother didnât like her. Mother said, âAll the sluts come from Visalia.â Mother missed Aunt Jane, who just after her fifty-fifth birthday bled to death in her bed from the last stages of bone cancer. Everyoneâs always got cancer in Fresno.
It was dark out; my room was a box of stale heat. There was the echo of laughter from the kitchen. Uncle Felix and Dad and Anne were having a bottle of wine.
âThere she is,â Anne said.
âHow do you feel?â
âI feel all right.â
âWould you like me to kill him?â Uncle Felix asked.
âWhat time is it?â
âI mean have him killed.â
âNo, but thank you, Uncle Felix.â Uncle Felix had walked the two miles to our house in the hot evening. He liked to walk.
âPast dinner,â Dad said. âBut no oneâs eaten dinner.â
âIâve eaten,â said Uncle Felix.
I opened and closed the pantry door: five-gallon jars of raisins and dried mint and bay leaves and walnuts. I opened and closed the refrigerator.
âThis always happens to Ingrid,â Anne said.
âIt doesnât always happen to me.â
âFive years ago, Fourth of July, at Newtonâs parentsâ house in Cornwall.â
Five years ago, on the Fourth of July, essentially the same thing had happened: I had moved from New York to London to live with Newton Greene, a floppy-haired English political consultant Iâd met at a dinner party in New York, and shortly after Iâd moved, during a weekend at his parentsâ house in the country, he told me he thought weâd made a mistake. âThat was one other time,â I said.
âIâll make it look like a car accident,â Uncle Felix said.
Dad was quiet. He patted my arm. âYou want a vodka?â he said. He got up to pour me a vodka.
âWhy donât you come back to Fresno and marry Wilson?â Uncle Felix said. Wilson was Uncle Felixâs nephew. He did the accounting for Uncle Felix and my parents and a couple of other growers in the valley.
âWilson needs to find a nice Fresno girl,â Anne said.
âIngridâs a nice Fresno girl,â Uncle Felix said.
âLetâs leave Ingrid alone,â Dad said, handing me the vodka. Heâd poured it over grapes from the freezer.
âIs this how you guys are drinking vodka now?â I said.
âBe happy weâre drinking vodka at all,â Anne said. Among farmers in the valley, itâs a complicated thing to drink anything but wine. The back of my parentsâ deep bar cabinet still had a bottle of cognac given to them the year they got married, and bottles of Canadian Club and Beefeater theyâd bought, naively, for parties theyâd given twenty-five years ago.
âItâs a conspiracy to use the grapes,â said Uncle Felix. âThose are my grapes youâre eating.â
âYou donât buy the Thompsons,â I said.
âI do,â said Uncle Felix.
âHe does,â said Dad. âUncle Felix is making wine youâd be embarrassed to drink.â
âIâm not embarrassed to drink anything,â Anne said.
âI remember,â said Dad.
âWhat kind of wine, Uncle Felix?â
âThe Australians, the Chileans, the Italians are beating us at low-priced wine. With grapes we can grow here. Grapes your father grows.â
âYouâre going to make cheap wine?â I said. âCheaper than before?â Uncle Felixâs wine went for eight or nine dollars a bottle. He had a huge operation, in vineyards and in wine. The wine part of the business had grown so much in the past twenty