year,â Anne said.
That June, the peaches didnât grow. The leaves of the peach trees wilted and curled and sprung pits with no flesh. There were no fruit flies, no infestations of worms. That year, the peaches had been stunted by water-stressed trees and a fungus nothing seemed to kill. âBut weâre fine, you donât want to hear about us,â Mother said. âOr do you want to hear?â
âYes, we do,â I said.
âYou know, those peaches they get from South America are grown in human shit,â Mother said.
âWe know about the South American peaches,â I said. When I first moved to Los Angeles, the sewer in Howardâs backyard had exploded. Months later, in that patch of grass to the side of the house where the toilet paper and feces and old tampons had come up, tomatoes appeared so plentiful, the vines so tall and abundant, I thought for a week the tomatoes were bougainvillea. Seeds must have made their way through the disposal. The vines grew up the side of the house and over the fence shared with the cranky neighbor. Those tomatoes were more delicious even than the ones my grandmother had grown. They were more delicious than any fruit I had eaten in years.
âDonât get me started on the peaches from Georgia.â
Anne said, âWe know the peaches from Georgia, Mom.â The peaches grown in Georgia, like most of the peaches grown in California the years we could grow peaches, were grown for color and for cold-storage endurance. They tasted like nothing, like wood pulp. Dadâs peaches were yellowy orange and didnât store very well, but they tasted the way a peach ought to taste, like sun and sugar, and Dadâs peaches were so juicy you had to eat them over a sink.
âThe Georgia peaches are just not fruit. Theyâre barely drupe. You should see the commercials theyâre running on television. Have you seen the commercials?â
âAre there commercials?â I didnât mention that this year, and for three years running, the California peaches were barely drupe. I really hadnât seen the commercials.
âTheyâre running commercials with worms coming out of our peaches. We donât even have worms this year.â
Anne said, âYou donât even have peaches.â
âYou can imagine your father. All those years with that bank, and now what theyâve done to him. You can imagine.â
âYes,â Anne said.
âBut you donât want to hear about us. What can I make you to eat?â Mother said.
Anne said, âShe wonât eat.â
âCanât,â I said.
âShe might have to see the doctor,â Anne said.
âNo one sees a doctor over a breakup,â my mother said. âDo you mean a shrink? Do you have a fever?â
âIngrid, if you donât start eating, Iâm going to take you to the hospital, but a bad hospital. With rats,â Anne said.
âI want to go to the hospital.â
âWe can find you a shrink, Ingrid,â Mother said. âIâm sure there must be some decent shrinks here in Fresno.â
âI am not going to see some Fresno shrink,â I said. âIâm going to stay here for a few days and sleep.â
âDo you want to talk about what happened?â
âNo, Mother.â
The kitchen window looked out to the yard, terraced down to the river. Each of the terraces indicated a year that peaches and grapes had done well. The tennis court for the year I was in fourth grade and peaches were forty dollars a box. The swimming pool the year I was in seventh and Dad put in the packing plant. The landscaping and floodlights along the river one of the years no one else could grow cabernet. This year, the grass on the terraces had gone brown from neglect and the untended swimming pool was green like the river and canals.
âHow about a fried egg?â my mother said. âA fried egg will make you feel