slope
intothevillage,wherehousesringed
anartificialpond.Mostofthehouses
lacked glass in their windows; some
ofthemlackedroofs.Theplacewas
all but abandoned and it was clear
Galya was not the only person to
haveleftPupkovo.
‘There used to be a club there,’
saidGalya,pointingatonebuilding,
whichhadbeenpartofthecollective
farm.Nowshewasnotsmiling.‘But
there’s no one left to dance any
more.’
We
could
hear
laughter,
however, and skirted the pond to a
little cabin that had been built out
overitssurface.AshinyGermancar
stood outside. A glistening fat man
in tight shorts and nothing else
waved us in, welcomed Galya by
name and passed his bottle of beer
into his left hand so that I could
approach him and shake his right.
He did not stand up or otherwise
move. His was the expensive car
parked on the lane. That and the
large gold cross on a gold chain
aroundhisneckshowedhimtobea
man of means. Galya explained my
mission.The man turned to his two
companions and to a child who was
turningkebabsonthebarbecue.
‘Dudko? Who the fuck was
Dudko?Wasn’t he from the Kaluga
region?’
The men simpered. The child
stared.
‘HewasfromtheKalugaregion.
Come on, we’ll hire a forester’s
truck. Get some fucking beer, and
somemeatandhaveabarbecue.It’s
not fucking far through the forest,’
he said with a grin, and a lunge
towardsGalya.
Galya’s face was set. She
declinedwithoutgivingmeachance
to come up with a plausible excuse.
Wehadpeopletomeet,shesaid,and
tookmebythehandoncemore.
‘Galya, why aren’t you wearing
a
fucking
cross? Aren’t
you
Russian? Where are you going?
Haveafuckingbeer.’
She towed me out of the cabin
and back on to the path. Her good
mood,alreadysouredbythesightof
herhomevillage,wasgone.
‘See that,’ she said. ‘Some
exampletohisson.Thatwashisson
there, the one who said nothing.
He’s got a pregnant daughter at
home with no husband, and he’s
sitting here drinking beer. No
education. It was people like him
who burned down my house, and
lookathimtherewithhiscross.Oh,
Russia,Russia.’
Weturnedleft,herleading,onto
a path across the fields, or what had
once been fields. They butted on to
the village houses but grew only
rankgrass.
‘Everything used to grow here,’
shesaid.Hervoicewastightandher
stepsfast.‘Seethere:potatoes.Over
there: tomatoes. Here was beetroot.
And now, nothing. It’s just ruined,
likethiswholecountry,andthatman
is there with his money and his
beer.’
The sandy soil was exposed
along the path, but otherwise this
farmlandhadturnedintowilderness.
Therewasnohumanmarkleft.
‘No one will even harvest this
hay.Whybother?There’snothingto
eatit.’
Thepathdippeddownintosome
trees,whereasmallchapelsatinthe
shade. It was built of softwood
planks and roofed with clear plastic.
Inside was a well, made of circular
concrete segments and choked with
foul green slime. It was an evil-
lookingplacetoholdbaptisms.
‘He built it,’ said Galya, with a
jerk of her head back towards the
pond.‘He’sinthecementbusiness.’
She paused to make sure I had
understood.‘Business,’sherepeated
with invisible inverted commas
aroundit.
A man was clearing weeds from
apaththatapproachedthefarsideof
the well. Galya greeted him as
Vasilyevich – son of Vasily – and
explained my goal. He shrugged at
the name Dudko. No Dudkos here,
he said, but he had some papers on
local history at his house if I was
interested.
Itwasthefirstleadallday,andI
accepted with enthusiasm. So, we
walked back past the pond, the fat
man, his car and his gang, whose
hails Galya ignored. News of
Galya’s visit spread quickly, and as
we waited for Vasilyevich to bring
out the papers, four or five women
gathered: all of them were old
friends of hers. There was no one
elseinthevillage.Noneofthemhad
heardoftheDudkos.Iwasfeelinga
bit light-headed in the burning