grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream
2 cups (480 ml) meat or tomato sauce (homemade or store-bought)
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Butter six ramekins or muffin tins.
Boil the pasta in 3 cups (720 ml) unsalted water for about 30 minutes, until very mushy. Drain and puree in a food processor or blender, adding a little of the cooking liquid, until smooth. Leave the puree in the processor until it has cooled to room temperature, then puree in the egg yolks, 2 heaping tablespoons of the cheese, the nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste.
In a bowl, beat the egg whites with a handheld mixer until very stiff. Pulse half the whites into the pasta mixture, then stir in the rest. It will be very dense.
Pour the mixture into the prepared ramekins and bake for about 18 minutes, until set.
Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, simmer the cream and 2 additional tablespoons of cheese over very low heat, stirring constantly, until thick. Season with pepper.
Heat the meat or tomato sauce and divide it among six small serving plates. Unmold a soufflé onto the center of each plate and top with the cheese sauce.
PASTA SHISH KEBOB
{ Spiedino gratinato di ruote pazze }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Puglia
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Pasta, scallops, sweet peaches, and red onion grilled on a stick—Italy’s delightful answer to shish kebob.
This is a wonderfully new way to serve pasta, artful and exceptionally delicious. To make this whimsical dish you need a whimsical pasta— ruote pazze , crazy wheels. This is a toothsome, thick, irregular-shaped wagon-wheel pasta that was invented by the Benedetto Cavalieri pasta company in the 1930s, with a special textured design that stays delightfully al dente to the very last bite and is easy to skewer.
I spent a magical few days in Puglia with the Cavalieri family, observing their old-world artisanal methods, chatting about the nuances of pasta making, and enjoying lunches and dinners together. Benedetto Cavalieri and his son Andrea continue a more than one-hundred-year family tradition of exceptional pasta making.
8 rosemary branches or wooden skewers, about 5 inches (13 cm)
8 large scallops
1 peach, cut into 8 slices
½ small red onion, cut into bite-sized pieces
Olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 garlic clove, finely minced
Black pepper
16 wagon-wheel pasta, preferably ruote pazze , Benedetto Cavalieri brand
Salt
Soak the branches or skewers in water for 1 hour to prevent charring.
Preheat the broiler or a grill to medium-high heat.
In a bowl, combine the scallops, peaches, onion, 2 tablespoons olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic, and season with black pepper.
Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss with the other ingredients. Thread a pasta wheel, peach slice, scallop, onion piece, and a second pasta wheel onto each branch or skewer. Season the skewers with salt and grill or broil them, turning them over after a minute or so, until the scallops are cooked through, about 3 minutes total.
SOUP IN A SACK
{ Minestra nel sacchetto }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Emilia-Romagna
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Here is one of the fastest ways to enjoy fresh pasta, without even getting flour on your hands! The dough ingredients—semolina flour seasoned with Parmesan, nutmeg, and other goodies—go into a sack, simmer in broth, then are cut into pieces. The result is glorious, flavorful pasta cubes.
In the past, every home in Bologna had special little hand-sewn cloth cooking bags specifically for this dish, but today parchment paper or a cotton dishcloth is used instead. The dough can be made with or without minced cold cuts. This version includes mortadella, the real Bolognese bologna, plus a bit of prosciutto, but you can omit the meats if you prefer.
This soup is drop-dead delicious, unusual, easy, fun to make, versatile … and did I mention delicious?
¾ cup (115 g) semolina flour
Grated Parmesan cheese
4 large eggs
4 tablespoons (60 g) butter, at room