temperature
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 ounces (60 g) mortadella or bologna, finely minced
2 ounces (60 g) prosciutto or ham, finely minced
10 cups (2.5 L) vegetable, chicken, or other broth
In a bowl, combine the semolina, ½ cup (60 g) of Parmesan, eggs, and butter and blend with a fork. Season to taste with the nutmeg and salt and pepper. Stir the mortadella and prosciutto into the mixture.
Spread a sheet of parchment paper or cotton dishcloth onto a work surface, put the mixture in the middle, and form it into a salami shape. Fold the paper or cloth around the log loosely—since the dough expands—and tie both ends with cotton kitchen string.
In a large pot, bring the broth to a boil. Put the “sack” into the broth. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for about 1 ½ hours, until the sack is very firm.
Remove the sack from the broth to a plate and untie the ends. Dice the pasta and divide it between four serving bowls, then top with the hot broth and a sprinkle of Parmesan.
ZUPPA DI PASSATELLI
{ Zuppa di passatelli }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Tuscany, le Marche, and Emilia-Romagna
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Much like the playdough you couldn’t get enough of as a child, this intriguing pasta is made by extruding the dough through a potato ricer. The results are long, thick rods of pasta called passatelli , which means “passing through.”
The toothsome strands are flavored with Parmesan and lemon zest. They liven up any broth, as served here, or when drained, they are great topped with tomato sauce. You can easily double or triple the pasta recipe, but in that case you might want to extrude the dough through the largest holes in your standing mixer’s food grinder attachment.
1 cup (170 g) semolina flour
Grated Parmesan cheese
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon butter, softened
Zest of ½ lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 quarts (2 L) vegetable, chicken, or other broth
In a bowl, stir together the semolina, ¾ cup (85 g) Parmesan, the eggs, butter, and zest until well combined and season with salt and pepper. Let rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
Bring the broth to a boil, then reduce the heat to a low boil.
Working directly over the simmering broth, pass the dough through the largest holes in a potato ricer, right into the broth. (Or if using a standing mixer’s food grinder attachment, put out a platter to catch the passatelli, then gently add them to the broth.) Simmer for 2 minutes, then remove the pot from the heat. When the passatelli float to the surface, they’re done. Serve them in bowls with the broth, topped with shaved or grated Parmesan.
CHAPTER
Fruit
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SEI UN LECCA PENTOLE.
YOU’RE A POT LICKER.
Said as a compliment to a foodie.
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My passion for pasta with fruit began while I was researching my first cookbook, Shakespeare’s Kitchen , when I discovered the many sweet-savory pasta dishes of the Renaissance. Now I’m always on the lookout for fruit and pasta pairings when in Italy and I constantly pester my Italian friends to send me recipes. In this chapter, you’ll find pasta paired with all sorts of fruit, both dried and fresh—berries, figs, prunes, dates, oranges, and lemons—each adding lovely color, brilliant acidity, and delicate sweetness to the sauces.
PASTA WITH ARTICHOKES, PRUNES & SAGE
{ Pasta coi carciofi, prugne secche, e salvia }
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SERVES 4 | REGION: Central and southern Italy
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Artichokes, which are slightly bitter, are nicely balanced in this dish by the sweetness of the prunes and the touch of sage, which adds brightness with its balsamic notes. Plus, it’s ready in fifteen minutes or less: By the time the pasta is al dente, the sauce is ready. Ah, Italy’s version of “fast food”!
This dish is typically served with incannulate —gorgeously long, wide ribbons of pasta that are folded over and then twirled around themselves. This must-try specialty of Puglia is available dried here in the States or you can make your own.