Nobody worked or wandered. They just sat in front of their crude quarters with no clothes on. It was hot, though. These people were in no way related to the organized nudists who spend family weekends at health spas and earn a living fully clothed the rest of the week. This scruffy bunch was a long way from earning anything.
This was a sight indeed, a site of insignificance. No stone pyramid with a historic marker at this spot. Just a weathered sign warning of a health hazard.
Tragically, I suspect the road ends here for some. I mean the big one, not the mere tracks in the sand on which I drove in, and fortunately, would drive out again. My good fortune was not just that I could leave but that I had a place to go.
I parked and walked to the thermal spring. It was surrounded with tall vegetation. Propped up on one side was a plywood windbreak. The hot water bubbling from the ground was diverted into a hole that someone had dug. Around the top, the hole was lined with flat rocks.
Gathered were a half dozen well-sunned people, some in the muddy hole, some sitting on the side. Everybody had long hair. Empty Old Milwaukee cans floated in the brown water. No clothes in sight. Not even towels.
An ample woman, half in the holeâI would guess her age somewhere between thirty-five and sixty yearsâwas tracking me with sunken eyes even before I got there. No one else, though, seemed to care about the arrival of a newcomer. She asked me, âDo you know how to fix a
tellyvision?â
âNo, donât even watch it much,â I replied,
âWell, I ainât watched a bit since Friday. Quit dead in the middle of
The Flukes of Hazzard.â
One of the guys said quietly, âItâs
Dukes,
Dummy.â
âWell, it quit in the middle, and Iâm after someone to fix it.â
A head of hair moved from the side to the center of the hole. It was a husky fellow in his late thirties. His arms and hands were half the normal size. Waist-deep in the hole, he moved to the edge, bent over, and picked up a pack of cigarettes with both of his tiny, deformed hands. Tapping the pack on a rock just once, a cigarette popped out. He put it between his lips without touching it with his wet fingers. Using a butane lighter, he lit the cigarette in a single, fluid motion. He had this procedure down to an art form.
A man with his back to me turned his head my way. âDid ya bring the beer?â
âForgot it,â I said, assuming an honest answer wouldnât work.
âThe guys in helicopters never showed, neither. We is gettinâ really low.â
Dummy said, âThere ainât no helicopters. You thought that up, just like always.â
âThey was hereâ¦when was it? They brought us that whatever it was. We played that good shit-kickinâ music you like. Remember? Where the hell was you?â
Dummy didnât answer. She was sinking in the hole.
âThey promised theyâd come back and bring some more.â Pointing at me, he said, âI thought he was one of âem.â
He rose on one elbow to face me, surfacing multiple tattoos, âYou sure youâre not one of âem?â
âSorry!â
He studied me for the longest time, then sett led back in the hole.
I drove to Salton City, depressed by what I had just seen. For centuries, people have gone to the desert to lose themiselves. The desert makes it easy. It happens almost as a matter of course.
Unable or unwilling to play the cards dealt them, lost souls drift from one shuffle to another in a desperate search for better ones. For many, the hunt invariably ends here in the desert, where the days are warm and life is undisciplined, unpoliced, and simple. In the vastness of the desert, a man can walk away from life yet still never take that last step.
âThere is always hope,â you might say. But only if you look for it. The ghettos, the mud holes, the pits of the desert are filled with those who have