ashes shifting inside. This cane was such a part of him. Now he was part of it . Here, in my hands.
FIVE
My eyes jerked open as the planeâs wheels hit the runway. We bounced up and down a few times, and then finally stuck to the ground. We rolled along the runway. It was so rough, I wondered if weâd landed in a field. I looked out the window. The runway was a narrow strip of pavement lined on both sides by dense bush. Probably good that Iâd been asleep as we approached the airstrip and hadnât seen it coming. I was just glad to be back on the ground.
I really didnât like flying at all. It wasnât just about being up high, which I didnât like. To me, flying was less like science and more like magic. How could a plane hang up there in the air? I knew all about aerodynamics, but it still didnât feel right to me.
Iâd never told anybody about my fear of flying. Particularly Grandpa. He loved flying almost more than anything else. I remember being up in a plane with him behind the wheel. He loved being up there, and I loved being with him, so I made sure he didnât know how much I hated flying. Heâd put me in the copilot seat when I was so small I could hardly see out through the windscreen. Sometimes heâd even let me put my hands on the rudderâa four-year-old flying a plane.
While we flew, he told stories: flying in his Lancaster during the war, being a bush pilot in the North, bouncing around Africa. That made me smile. When I thought about the last time he was in the air at the controls of his plane, my smile left. He knew he was getting too old to fly solo, and that wasnât just his thinking but the governmentâs. As heâd said, âRegulations are regulations, and I canât fight them.â So he allowed his pilotâs license to lapse.
I had been there on the ground, holding my motherâs hand, Steve holding the other, when Grandpa landed that last time. He went up alone, just him and the plane and the sky.
If I closed my eyes, I could still see him slowly walking away from the plane after he landed. He told me it was one of the saddest days of his life. I was sad for him, but secretly I was grateful Iâd never have to go up with him again. And that still made me feel guilty.
I was now on the third flight of my trip and each plane had gotten smaller and more suspect. Finally we arrived in Moshi, a town near Kilimanjaro. Grandpa would have loved this last plane because it was so tiny. It held only sixteen people and seemed less like a plane than a bus with two propeller-driven engines. Bad enough that it was like a bus, but it wasnât even a nice bus. The carpeting on the floor was worn and torn, as were the seats. Torn wouldnât have been bad if my seat hadnât also been crookedâone of the support legs was bustedâand if it had a seat belt that worked. Rather than buckling up, the attendant had helped me tie the two ends together.
The plane was still bumping along the runway when people started to get up from their seats. They seemed to have no sense of safety or following rules, although I could appreciate wanting to get off this plane as fast as possible. On the ground was good, but feet on the ground was better. I thought the flight attendant would tell them to sit down, but she hadnât bothered. Passengers held on to seats, swaying while they opened up the overhead compartments and pulled out their bags.
The plane finally came to a complete stop, and I untied my seat belt and got to my feet, smacking my head loudly against the overhead compartment. The thud was loud enough that people turned to stare. A few looked like they were about to laugh or giggle, and others looked concerned.
âIâm okay,â I said to everybody and nobody. âThey just donât make these big enough for me.â
I stepped into a gap in the aisle and stood up, almost straight. My head brushed against the