couple of eggs to go with it.â He started to rise, but I put out a hand.
âYou sit. Iâll fry. Youâre a guest.â I fixed his eggs and sat down again.
While he ate, his eyes roamed around the room. He looked happy, and I was happy to have him there. Friends are scarce and rare.
âPlace looks mighty fine. Not to criticize your housekeeping, J.W., but I think having Zee around has improved things quite a bit.â
âNo doubt about it.â
âI imagine thereâve been a lot of changes since I was here last.â
âMore than you know. After you finish eating, Iâll take you on the two-wheel-drive tour and you can check things out for yourself. What you wonât see is the hundred thousand tourists we get in the summer.â
âMostly locals here now, I guess.â He finished his meal and rose before I could. âNo, I remember the rule, and itâs a good one: the cook doesnât do the dishes; the eater does. Makes for peace in the valley.â
He carried his dishes and my now empty cup to the sink, washed everything, and stacked it in the drainer. Like everything else he did, he worked smoothly and without wasted effort, as though every movement had been choreographed. When he was done, he came outside to where I was refilling the bird feeders. The two cardinals that sat in the catbrier between visits to the feeders were waiting for me to leave.
âPretty birds,â said Clay.
âTheyâre even prettier when itâs snowed,â I said. âBright red against all that white. Christmas card stuff. If youâre ready for the ten-cent tour, make sure you wear that coat. My heater has never worked right.â
Overhead the sky was gray-blue, with high, thin clouds moving down from the northwest, dimming the midwinter sun. The wind was chilly and the trees around the house were bare ruinâd choirs.
We drove up our long sandy driveway, where I turned left and headed into Edgartown.
âA lot of these buildings werenât here when I was last here,â said Clay, as we passed through the Y and went on. His eyes never stopped moving.
âTrue.â When Iâd first come to the island, Edgartownâs Main Street had been lined with useful stores and shops: drugstores, grocery stores, a paper store, hardware stores, and clothing stores. Now it was all T-shirt shops, pricey resort-clothing shops, and souvenir stores, most of which were closed during the off-season. If you needed anything useful, you often had to go to Vineyard Haven or Oak Bluffs to get it.
âCannonball Parkâs still here, I see.â
âTrue again. And the cannons and cannonballs still donât match.â
âI remember when some drunk college kid tried to steal one of those cannonballs. The cops let him try to carry it for a couple of blocks before they arrested him.â
âItâs challenging to purloin a ten-inch ball of iron.â
We drove down Main and to the docks, where we saw scallop boats going out toward the ponds, manned by fishermen thick with clothing.
âThese guys earn their money,â I said. âI do some winter scalloping, myself.â
Clay nodded. âFishing is a wicked way to make a buck. I fished out of Alaska one season, and a couple of times I didnât think we were going to make it back to land. Some of those guys go out in tubs that will hardly float.â
âTheyâre probably a lot like the fishermen around here. They have to choose between fixing up their boats, buying insurance, or buying fuel. Most opt for the fuel because thatâs the only way they can get out to the grounds and maybe make a profit for a change. When were you in Alaska?â
âOh, I thought you knew. A few years back. My second ex sicced the police on me and I had to get out of state, so I went north. Iâd never been there, so I figured Iâd be fine until the dust settled. And I was. Never