Truro. Raymieâs B & B actually straddles the boundary between PâTown and North Truro and was given the choice of addresses by the U.S. government. She chose PâTown because, she figured, for visitors looking for action no matter how tame, PâTown would be a better draw than Truro, where thereâs nothing but wind, sand, sky and some old houses. Not even a downtown. People coming off Route 6 drive round and round, looking in vain for downtown Truro. One man was known to have driven around for a day and a half before he was willing to ask someone for directions to Truro, only to be told he was already there.
In 1989, Raymie bought a falling-apart late-nineteenth-century house that looked as if no one but mice and squirrels had lived in it for many years. She got a small-business loan and fixed it up with the help of shelter magazines specializing in before-and-after featuresâalong with my kibitzing, as she called itâcarefully following good ideas and discarding bad ones. What she ended up with was three bedrooms with queen-sized beds, one with a thin slice of water view for which people were willing to pay twice as much as for those that only looked out on trees and grass. She enlarged the kitchen so that if sheâs full up the guests can all have breakfast at approximately the same time. She chatted with them at breakfast, gave them tips on what to see and what to avoid, and did the cheerful hostess bit so well that no one could tell when she was blue or under the weather. âItâs an act, Dannie,â she told me. âBut a lot of the time I really mean it. I really like my guests. I wouldnât be doing this if I didnât.â
We drew up in her gravel driveway and parked alongside a Honda with chipped paint and a dented rear door. It had New Jersey plates. There was another car parked some ways off, a Lexus. As we got out, Beth reminded me that we were only going to stay a few minutes.
âGod, am I glad you showed up!â Raymie led us into the kitchen, where she was obviously in the middle of preparing something for dinner. âCan you stay?â she said. âIâve made much too much marinara.â Beth threw me an urgent look and I told Raymie we had to get home for dinner; I thought maybe Tom would show up; I hoped he would.
Raymie asked Beth a few questions point-blank: What was she doing here? How was the boyfriend? Beth began to squirm and I said quietly, âBethâs taking a little vacation on her own. Can we leave it at that?â Beth sighed.
Raymie stirred her spaghetti sauce with a long-handled wooden spoon, turning her back to us but talking over her shoulder. She complained briefly about not having the cash to fix the roof. Then she said, âIâve got a real strange one staying here for two days. He makes me nervous. I havenât felt this way about a guest since that couple from Arizonaâ¦â
âThe man who was wanted for mutilating sheep?â
âThatâs the one.â
I wanted to know precisely what had put her off about her guest. âWell, for one thing, he didnât have any luggage, just a small backpack, not even a change of clothes, nothing. For another, he smoked nonstop, one cigarette from another. You know I donât allow smoking on the premises, but Iâm sure he was doing it anyway. You can smell it.â She heard himâthrough the door, of courseâtalking in an urgent voice on his cell phone late at night. âHe didnât want my blueberry pancakes, just asked for coffee, black. He looked as if he hadnât slept more than five minutes all night.â
âSomething on his mind?â I said. Beth had perked up and was listening with interest. âHow old is he?â she asked.
âIâd say mid-thirties. While he was out taking a walkâhe saidâI took a look inside his roomâI had to replace some towels anyway. Heâs got a detailed map of