back, youâre broke already?â
âI was broke when I got back. Vientiane went bad.â
âI donât want to know! And I canât pay you to fuck around in the trees when thereâs a war about to start.â
âThereâs always a goddamn war.â
I feel my jaw clench. See it in his eyes: A good war is just what you need.
I want to hit him in the face. Reach for a cigarette instead.
He grabs it out of my mouth.â Hijo de puta, whatâs wrong with you?â
Fucker went to Georgetown, speaks better English than meâhe just swears in Spanish because he likes the sound.
âDonât be a baby. I wonât burn the place down.â Take another one from my pack, light it.
Gusâs eyes are narrow, bloodshot. He runs a huge hand through three days of beard. âYou just fogged everything that wasnât fixed.â
âWho cares? No oneâll use âem, anyway.â
âDo what you like,â he says finally.
----
The scum are still floating around as I leave, excited looks on their pasty faces as they chew over all the things that could go wrong between now and tomorrow. Iâm dizzy from hours in the dark and too much developer. Gus is off in graphics, so I stop at his desk and steal the cigarettes he keeps for emergencies. Then Iâm back on the street, dazed by the afternoon sun. The Cambodia theme song starts playing:
âMoto? Moto?â
â. . . need a ride?â
â. . . want a girl?â
â. . . come and eatââ
â. . . anywhere you wantââ
â. . . where you go, handsome guy?â
â. . . she very prettyââ
I pass by and they sink back to their perches, waiting for the next mark.
Trees line the block outside the office, curving overhead like a roof and splashing the ground with dappled light. Even in the shade itâs hot, and my shirt is stuck to my back in seconds. Day workers sleep on the grass next to the snack carts. Itâs quiet: you wouldnât think a war was about to start.
Iâm only going a few blocks, but the state Iâm in, not sure Iâll make it on foot.
I stop to buy a fried banana from an ancient woman with a table by the side of the road. Itâs the tiny, sweet kindâtastes of woodsmoke and honey, and I savor the rush of sugar.
Itâs not enough.
The country can go to hell without my attention. I need a beer.
âMoto, mister? Moto?â
âSure. Take me to the river.â
----
The Foreign Correspondents Club will be rammed: anytime a gun goes off, all the journos and aid workers get thirsty. I donât want to hear more people talking about how thrilling it all is, I just want a drink.
Thereâs a new place just across the roadâan open-air pub on the corner, looking out over the quay and the water. Posh, empty; the neon over the awning says THE RIVERâS EDGE . I go in. A hardwood bar carved with twining snakes, and a girl behind it: black eyes, face like a temple statue, busy doing nothing. She smiles as I step off the sidewalk and tells me I am very pretty. Then she says I look like I need a drink.
âThose things donât go together.â
âI not see you yet,â she says, whatever that means. âHow long in Cambodia?â
âNine years.â
âOh!â She grabs my hand in both hers, like Iâve just told her about Maâs tragic death in that threshing-machine accident. âYou want a lot beer.â She smells of cheap soap and whiskey. âI am Chantrea. You call me Channi. I work before at Ms. Pong bar, but I not see you there. I think you new, but you old.â
âDonât flatter me.â
She giggles. Sheâs still hanging on to my hand, and Iâm not minding it too much. Force the feeling down with a pint of cheap beer. Chasing girls in a place like this is a good way to get knifed: managers donât like