thirty miles back toward San Francisco. Unfortunately, the hostess of the Boonville Hotel informed him that it wasnât a working hotel anymore, âjust a restaurant and bar.â John didnât press for details. Heâd settle for a drink. But apparently the bartender had taken it upon himself to fill him in on the history.
âThe owners of this place were a couple from Frisk,â he toldJohn. âThey were the ones responsible for the sign and puttinâ art on the walls, fancy wine, espresso, ten bucks a salad: piece of lettuce, rabbitâs shit worth of goat cheese. California Nouvelle Cuisine. Told the food critics they grew everything in the garden, organic. Yuppies and hippies love their organics. They came out of the woodwork to eat at the New Boonville Hotel. Then all hell broke loose.â
People didnât often share information with John, who had overheard his friends describe him as âfiercely loyalâ and âthe last to know,â the latter attribute lending itself to the first. He had the instincts of a mutt: feed me, pet me, fetch. What facts he had discovered, he had sought out to routine disappointment. The truth hurt. Still, he didnât want to be left out. He waited for the bartenderâs bone toss, feigning the composure of someone who could keep a secret. The bartender leaned in further, obviously having taken the job for the social aspects, not the paycheck.
He told John the former owners were bad businesspeople, running up debts and burning bridges. The wait-staff began demanding payment for their shifts in advance. A cook once quit three times in the same week, walking out during the dinner rush. They had to bribe him back with a case of wine. One night, tired of the battle, the couple âZâedâ the register and skipped town without paying anyone. Two weeks later, they hired someone to rob the restaurant, then claimed theft and collected insurance money from a post office box in Mendocino.
âBig goddamned stink,â the bartender said. âLocals started lootinâ the place. See, your average logger or Mexican couldnât afford to eat here, still canât. They wouldnât let âem hang out in the bar either. Yuppies in six-hundred-dollar suits donât want to look at rednecks in twenty-dollar jeans. Most folks just took what they thought was owed. I sent my grandkid into the wine cellar, but the half-wit came back with six bottles of grenadine. Been drinkinâ Shirley Temples to make my toes curl. But now that couple runs a restaurant up in Seattle or Paris or somewhere. Rich people can get away with murder.â
âDidnât the local authorities do anything?â John said, rinsing his throat with the rest of his beer.
âLocal authorities?â the bartender laughed. âAll we got is Cal, the resident deputy. Other than him, thereâs no law. Heâs got better things to do than guard this place. Thereâs a fight pretty near everyweek at the Lodge, folks drivinâ around higher ân a billy, four-wheelinâ, shootinâ guns. Besides, his response time ainât what I call inspirinâ. By the time he gets his slow butt out of bed, crimeâs been done. Hold up a minute.â
The bartender tramped three paces to take a coupleâs order, waiting patiently while a bald man in a sports jacket asked about the ânoseâ and âacidityâ of various wines on the wine list. After a litany of questions concerning âharvests,â âfermentation,â and âbarrel selection,â he inquired about the house red, asking if it was âfull-bodied.â The bartender answered, âLike Liz Taylor on a chocolate binge.â Uncorking a bottle labeled Edmeades, he poured two glasses with the nonchalance of someone who had spent more than their share of time behind a slab of mahogany. The bald man shoved his face into the glass, held it up to the