words: too big. I try to push it down deep.
Another two guys paddle to the lineup. Jay Delgado and Tyler Ferguson. They are the opposite of old-school; theyâre pricks. In addition to being a self-loathing misogynist with (I suspect) a small penis, Jay has a special hatred for me on account of the fact that Sheriff busted his alkie old man twice on DUIs. Now, Mr. Delgado has to ride a bicycle around town, even in the winter, one of the many aimless drunks of NeâHwas who canât be trusted to drive a car. They should put that in the brochures.
Jayâs family tried to fight the charges, arguing police discrimination. The DUIs stood.
Jay looks at me, unable to hide the surprise in his eyes that Iâve made it out here. âPlaying with the big boys today.â
I keep my eyes on the horizon. âIâm just here to surf.â
âYou donât belong out here. Youâre out of your league.â
âI made it out, didnât I?â I say. I canât let Jay get in my head. I need to focus on the waves.
âThis isnât the kiddie pool, Dreary Creary. Donât expect me to pull you out when you get thrown down by one of these monsters,â Jay says.
âDonât expect me to save your ass, either,â I snap.
Jay laughs. âRight. Like thatâs ever going to happen.â
I could point out that Iâm the only one with a surfing championship under my belt, but I know how hollow that sounds. I was seventeen. My glory days of surfing are far behind me. I straighten up on my board and try to look tough.
âWhereâd you pick up that sledâthe Salvation Army? 1962?â Jay says.
I steal a glance at Jayâs brand-new custom board. Itâs bright yellow and shaped by some famous surfer in Hawaii, or so Iâve heard. âThat thing come with training wheels?â I say.
Tyler pipes in. âDude, itâs custom. Donât dis the sled.â
âYouâre not on your period, are you, Jess?â Jay says. âYouâre not going to attract sharks, are you?â
Tyler howls. Almost falls off his board laughing.
âScrew you,â I say. Back when I started surfing, I thought I was joining a special tribe. A great big, happy cult that shared in their mystical love of the ocean, but without the typical cult drawbacks like drinking acid-laced Kool-Aid or worshipping aliens. I quickly learned that Nipon surfers are more like a pack of wolves. You have to earn respect from the alpha male here, and then maybe, just maybe, you can earn a place in the lineup.
Freddie and Josh arenât part of the pack, but they donât exactly welcome you with open arms, either. Freddie looks our way, hands turned up on his board like a surfing Buddha. He rolls his eyes. Doesnât engage. Here to surf.
âPaddle home, girl,â Jay says.
I ignore him. Thereâs only one way to get him off my back, and that is to catch a wave.
When the next set appears, talking stops. All eyes are on the waves.
No one takes the first wave, or the second. I watch the third. Its crest forms a light pyramid, which means itâs peaked, rather than closing out. This is the type of wave you want. I study it for another few seconds and realize Iâm too far out. Iâll have to paddle in fast to be in position.
I spin my board around so Iâm facing shore and look over my shoulder. Itâs a behemoth. Bigger than any wave Iâve ever ridden. Double overhead. I start paddling.
After six or seven strokes, I feel myself rising and I put it into full gear, windmilling both arms. Paddle, paddle, paddle. The wave lifts me up, but it doesnât grab hold. Itâs faster than I am, and it passes below me before I can build enough speed to catch it.
Now Iâm on the back side of the wave and my arms are like jelly, and another big wave is coming at me.
I either have to go for it or turn around and paddle to get behind it. In waves