from across the street. Now Iâll grant you, a guy wearing a full-body fur mushroom suit to promote an organic vegetarian pizza pub is arguably the whitest thing to have occurred in the history of whiteness, but itâs not as though itâs going to rub off on them. Itâs not like itâs contagious, like breathing the air around me will result in sudden loss of pigmentation, cravings for old Friends episodes, and, I donât know, a Dave Matthews box set. On the other hand, itâs only fair to admit that if such a disease existed, and if it were airborne (as indeed mushroom spores are), then I am exactly the person who would be carrying itâpatient zero, Typhoid Whiteyâso maybe theyâre wise to play it safe.
Okay, youâve got the picture: this is a shitty job. But not everything about itâs shitty. In fact there are many perks. Iâll tell you.
First, I get paid under the table. As far as the federal governmentâs concerned, I havenât earned a taxable dime in three years. Second, I get a free shift meal every day I work, plus whatever I can steal, which is plenty. I mean itâs not just food and booze. Ethan is a terrible businessman, the worst Iâve ever encountered: a blackout alcoholic and probably bipolar, though heâs also a cokehead and smokehound, so maybe his emotional swerves are side effectsâor, rather, the intended effectsâof the way he paces his days. What Iâm trying to put across here is that Ethanâs the perfect boss. He is reason number three or, really, all the reasons. Whenever I see a light on in the restaurant after hours, I knock on the kitchen window, find him rolling blunts at the salad station or deep-throating the spigot on the Jagerator, a medium quattro formaggi in the oven and him without anyone to share it with. He unlocks the back door for me, and forty-five minutes later Iâm shit-faced, fed, and getting another raise.
Ethan is a self-sabotaging trust fund maniac whose folks set him up with this franchise for his thirtieth birthday, mostly, I think, so heâd have somewhere other than the grounds of the family estateâa former plantation, it could have gone without sayingâto play âIn Memory of Elizabeth Reedâ at blowout volume a dozen times a day. As long as he keeps his annual losses in the mid five figures theyâll keep him in business. So he has his clubhouseâwith its audiophile-grade sound system, bulk alcohol purchase orders, and Showtime After Darkâgrade waitstaffâand the family is spared both the Allman Brothers and the train wreck, if thatâs not too redundant to say. The college, for its part, inducts a freshman class every single year. (I myself was in it once, and look at me now!)
These kids, like I did, come from towns where the vegetable on the menuâwhen there is oneâis either Jell-O or tuna fish salad, so organic mozzarella cheese is a legitimate thrill. The girls we hire cut deep Vs into the necks of their uniform tie-dye T-shirts, which is technically a violation of the terms of our franchise agreement, but so far nobodyâs complained. I donât know who started this tradition. I also donât know why an eighteen-year-old girlâa girl whoâs been in town all of four days; who decides to try our restaurant for lunch because there was a 20-percent-off coupon in her dormitory welcome packet and weâre on the only off-campus street she can name; who walks over here, comes in, sits down, has to shout over the strains of âMelissaâ or âJessicaâ to give her order to a server who for her part is probably named Melissa or Jessica, wearing tell-all jeans shorts and a shirt thatâs essentially confetti; who is charged $8.95 for two pieces of pizza and a Sprite (thatâs with the coupon, mind you, and before tip)âstands up at the end of her dining experience, brushes the cornmeal off her skirt,