they could make something of themselves, married Milanese, then took on America, Ellis Island and all that, settled in New Jersey, then Indianapolis as of the last generation, her hometown. Catholic guilt? âNah,â sheâd say, âI wish I had been brought up stricterâIâd have an excuse for being so screwed up. I went to a suburban Catholic church, never confessed anything, went to mass at Easter and Christmas.â Any longings for the Old Country? âWhat old country?â sheâd ask. âNew Jersey? I wish I had had a richer ethnic upbringingâitâd give me an excuse for being so screwed up. My folks tried hard not to be ItalianâI canât speak Italian worth beans. Some people here in New York get fish on Fridays and Grandma telling folk tales and Grandpa drinking grappa after mass, and all that, but nyehh, I had Indianapolis and shopping malls, Girl Scouts, all kinds of Americana and crap.â Difficult childhood in conservative Indianapolis? âNot really. Itâs a nice place, a nice boring place. I was too boring back there to mind it. But Iâm interesting now. Sorta wished I had grown up in Little Italy, the mean streets with all the passion and drama.â We looked at each other and simultaneously said: âItâd give me an excuse for being so screwed up.â
âDo me a favor,â Emma was saying, âand fire meâdo me a big fat goddam favor and fire me, get me outa this place, willya do that for me? You think I like seeing people come in here all the time, DYING for a pizza, hungry, starved for pizza, and take a pathetic look at this garbage and whisper, gee, letâs go someplace else, it doesnât look very good here? Hey, and donât walk away while Iâma talkinâ to you!â
Baldo came back from the kitchen: âYouâre talkinâ to me?â
âYeah Iâma talkinâ to you.â
Baldo locked Emma in a big embrace, a cloud of flour flying up from the apron: âYou gonna apologize âbout my pizza, ey?â
âHands off, hands offâyou mess me up like you mess up your pizzaâ¦â Both were laughing at this point. âYou gotta meet my roommates,â she said, fighting him off. âThis is Lisa, this is Gilbert.â
Baldo tipped his silly Italian pizza-chefâs hat to Lisa. âHer I seen before here. Pretty face, I remember that. Youââ He meant me. ââYou I donât know. You livinâ with these two? You are? A baby like you? Gonna be nothinâ left of you, sonny boy. This oneâll kill youââ He recommenced his tickling attack on Emma who was now armed with a garlic shaker.
âHow âbout a faceful, huh? Get your hands away from me. I think itâd be nice if you gave my friends a pizza slice. Itâs Gilâs first slice of pizza in New York. Not that this shit is pizza.â She dodged another lunge of Baldo.
âFree slice?â he cried, slapping his forehead, looking to the ceiling, beseeching the gods. âWhat am I? The return of Mayor Goddam Lindsay? I look like Welfare to you little gurl? Scuze me but the soup kitchen is that way to the Bowery, ey?â
We got three free slices and they were terrible, but even bad New York pizza is better than a lot of good things and I was happy to be eating a slice of it, walking along the East Village, down St. Markâs Place, where the trendy, filthy, fashionable and wretched all meet and intermingle to this day (âvery NYC,â as Lisa would say), with Lisa on one side of me, Emma on the other. Wow, Gil in New York with TWO WHOLE WOMEN!
âLetâs get drunk,â said Emma, holding her hands to her face. âGod, my hands have permanent pizza smell. I go to sleep smelling this stuffâI dream about oregano. Every night, pizza dreams, like Disneyâlittle pepperonis jumping on my pillow, the Dance of the