a minute,â says César, who is using the bottle opener to serve the customers.
âNever mind,â says Uncle Lucho, putting the bottle cap between his teeth and biting it off with one pull. He hands me the bottle and spits the cap onto the floor. Antonia is impressed.
âDonât be
cochino
,â says Yolita. âOffer her a glass.â
âThis is fine.â Aah â¦
Two caramel-colored men in oil-stained T-shirts are sharing a big bottle of Pilsener beer on the sidewalk in front of the store. They are already sweating. I check my watch. Itâs not even 9:00 A.M.
âCome here, Filomenita,â calls Guillermo. âI got something for you. Give me your watch,â he says, already unstrapping it from my wrist.
âWhat?â
He shushes me, makes my watch disappear and replaces it with what looks like a shiny, new Rolex.
âThere!â he says, excessively triumphant. âWelcome back.â Guillermo kisses me on both cheeks.
Now I get a good look at the watch. The name, when observed closely, turns out to be Rolux. The factory where Guillermo and seventy-nine other underpaid Ecuadorians grind out imitations of expensive foreign products, mostly for export.
âIâll wear it with pride,â I say, swinging my wrist up with a showy snap to check the time.
âEasy!â shouts Guillermo, grabbing my wrist. He looks at the watch, taps the face with his fingernail, and shakes my wrist. The second hand starts moving again, and Guillermo lets out a puff of air. âCareful with it,â he says.
âI will be.â Iâll also keep my other watch around.
âWeâve got a barrel of rainwater on the roof,â says Uncle Lucho. âYou can use a couple of pitchers of it to shower.â
â
Thank you
.â Two quarts of germ-free rainwater and Iâm ready to get down on my knees and sing Godâs praises. Funny how your values change when youâre away from your safe and constant home.
âNow letâs get you gals settled in upstairs.â
César says, âWatch out by the stairs. We broke a bottle of soda.â
âYeah, thereâs all this sticky red crap and broken glass on the floor,â I observe, feeling a tingling in my veins, and in an eyeblink itâs gone. âCareful, Toni. The floorâs all sticky.â
Antonia says, âOkay, so donât go licking the bottom of your shoes.â
âThatâs a good plan under normal circumstances, butââ
âBut? You got a but to go with that?â
âI just donât think we should be ruling anything out at this point.â
âMom?â
âLook, Iâm just tired and a little freaked out now, okay? Iâll feel better after I shower and change.â
â
¿Qué significa
âfreaked outâ?â Suzie asks.
âThatâs what I keep asking her,â says Antonia, poking me. âSome expression from the Paleolithic era, I think.â
â
Neo
lithic, please,â I correct her.
We lug our bags up three flights of cement stairs to the upper floors, which the family built by hand under Uncle Luchoâs supervision. Upstairs, we unpack the essentials. Suzie sneaks a friendly peek in my handbag. âYou carry a lighter?â she asks.
âSure. You never know when you might need to set something on fire.â
The rich rhythms of Afro-Colombian
cumbias
float through the air like high-grade opium. A turkey my aunt raised on theterrace is slowly roasting over a homemade barbecue crafted from a fifty-five-gallon steel drum cut down the middle and laid on its side, and the flat rooftop terrace is filled with the hot bodies of bronze and brown-skinned family and friends. Some of my relatives would be considered black in the U.S.
I refuse drinks, have others, dance with cousins I havenât seen since Antoniaâs first communion, and with one of Luisâs classmates, who has